Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Camera Shake, Enemy of Photographer

One of the biggest enemies for the photographer was shaking on camera while taking the picture. Many good photos should be destroyed because of camera shake. And this is difficult to repair even though we use a photo editor program.
 
Various things can cause this to happen, like a lens that is too long and heavy, the handle is less robust, or our inability to hold the camera so as not to sway for a few moments.
 
Typically, this occurs at a slow shutter speed to get more light, causing the camera to shake. While rocking just a little, it is enough to make us become like the photo consists of 2 or more images that accumulate each other (ghost image). While in shooting with high shutter, the possibility of this happening is very small.
 

Zoom = The possibility of a larger shake
 
One very important principle, is the more we zoom to the object, the more likely the camera shake. Therefore, to obtain sharper results by using the zoom needed a higher shutter speed than when we did a photo shoot with a wide lens (wide angle lens).
 
The solution to this is to use a faster shutter speed. There is one theory that is often used by the photographer, namely the theory of "one over the focal length." Simpelnya use of this theory is that we must know the type of lens and focal length that we use when taking the picture. Then take the shutter speed 'over / under' focal length. Figures shutter it is the safest number so that we can avoid the occurrence of shaking on our camera.
 
For example we use a 55-200 mm lens with a focal length of 200 mm so far, then we are the minimum shutter 1 / 250 for our camera was not shaking. This is a public figure that can be used by the photographer whose hands it's easier to shake.
 
As for the photographer a stronger hand in holding the camera (steady hands), then the minimum shutter speed to 200 mm focal length is 1 / 125.
 
If we use a shutter speed below the figures above, then the possibility of shaking the camera will be greater. For example, using a focal length of 200 mm with a shutter 1 / 60.
 
However this is not a fixed price. This is a simple guide that is widely used by the photographer based on their experience during the shooting.
 
There are 2 other alternatives that could be used to overcome this shaking, using a tripod / monopod or using flash. Nevertheless the use of flash is limited to short distance, and also can eliminate the natural color impression arising from the object.
 
Many lenses now who have added this shake reduction features, such as the output lens with Nikon's Vibration Reduction (VR), Canon with Image Stabilizer (IS), Sony with a steady shot and others. In the Nikon / Canon, (VR / IS) the way it works is to use a motion detector (gyro), which then moves one element / group lens to neutralize the movement. So if the shooting hand of the photographer to move down, then the element / her lens group is moved upward by this feature.
At Sony / Olympus, (SteadyShot / SWD) also use the motion detector, but the components that move to counteract the movement is the image sensor.
All the way to neutralize the movement above have the same goal, namely to make photographer can take photos up to 2 ~ 3 stops lower speed because of the vibrations which are usually seen at low speed was neutralized by the VR / IS / OS.
 
Hopefully these tips useful. Happy shooting!

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